![]() Each spark plug firing caused the power supply, with its capacitor, to discharge into the lamp. Triggering of the flash tube was obtained in various ways, typically a few turns of thin wire was wrapped around the glass outside to which high voltage from the spark plug connection was applied to create a strong electric field which enabled the discharge of a fair amount of electric current, but of very short time length, the result of which was a bright burst of white light. The high voltage circuit included a fairly powerful capacitor that could supply sudden very short time period amounts (tiny fractions of a second) of high current and voltage repetitively, to supply the flash tube power. Sealed into each end of this flash tube was a stub wire. and then applied to contacts inside a smallish glass 'flash tube' that contained a pressurized gas. The transformer output was high voltage, which was rectified to D.C. The vehicle battery was used to power the vibrator, which produced a truly funky alternating current as needed for input to the transformer. had a car radio 'vibrator' (vibrating electrical contacts) and a small transformer. The next timing light development.and this is still from long ago. I'll get into much more depth on various timing lights just below. Getting an electrical shock from more modern ignition systems is quite dangerous, another reason for use of modern timing lights. A lot of old-time mechanics more than occasionally got electric shocks using these methods. These methods are all obsolete, although they do work. There have been folks who use this method to light-up a small fluorescent lamp. It was OK for a darkened garage or engine area. This type worked fine, needed no power from a battery but, was not very bright. Coming out of that electrically insulated bulb assembly was two high voltage insulated wires, of which one was attached to the spark plug & the other wire was attached to engine ground (case metal). Many decades ago, timing lights consisted of a glass bulb containing two separated thin plates or short curled wires, or, whatever, and the glass bulb was usually filled with neon gas. In-depth information on spark plugs and their caps: įor a critique of that manual (and some corrections to mark in pencil in yours): Mostly written by super-guru, OAK Okleshen!. The description on the Chitech website is not descriptive-enough for all that is in this manual. RECOMMENDED: The CHITECH BMW Electric School Manual, likely still available at $30. They are only "fair" on ignition items & testing, & certainly NOT good for repairs to the innards. You may wish to see Haynes or Clymers manuals. WHILE I DO LIST 'SOURCES' FOR INFORMATION, PARTS, AND REPAIRS THROUGHOUT THIS ENTIRE ARTICLE, THEY SHOULD NOT BE TAKEN TO MEAN THAT THEY HAVE MY UNCONDITIONAL APPROVAL. >ESPECIALLY READ ARTICLE 29.WHICH COVERS A NUMBER OF THINGS, INCLUDING DWELL, IN GREAT DEPTH.> I can also recommend article #52 which covers pinging-detonation. These various articles will just about completely explain everything about the various ignition's, dual-plugging, single-plugging, sparkplugs, etc. You will not get a complete understanding without reading two others: #28 & #29. ![]() There are several major ignition system articles on this website. Rubber seal strip at points cavity, pre-1979 models Information on ignition timing versus piston movement has been moved to item #18 at: Ĭoils: specifications, failure modes, testing Ignition modules original, changes, updates Also covered: the pesky rubber seal that goes into the points cavity groove. Points (both old camshaft nose type & canister types). ![]() Timing lights: history, types, designs, uses, internal & external power sources, etc. ![]()
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